Description

Tropheus sp. 'kirschfleck' BULU POINT

The taxonomic situation in the genus Tropheus is, at present, not very clear. We can say that we are witnessing the creation of new species in real time. At the moment, taxonomists recognize 5 scientifically described species (annenctens, brichardi, duboisi, moorii and polli) and another 10 groups that are still waiting for their scientific names.
Tropheus sp. 'kirschfleck' is regarded by African Diving and on tanganyika.si as a distinct species, separate from T. sp. 'black', while Ad Konings considers the so-called "Kirschfleck moorii" to represent a geographic variant of T. sp. 'black'. Another name used for this species, primarily by African Diving, is T. sp. 'Doubleblot'; on tanganyika.si the name T. sp. 'kirschfleck' is preferred, as it is more widely known among aquarists.

Species is endemic in Lake Tanganyika, along the central western Tanzanian coast. The natural distribution extends from Lyamembe Bay in the south to Katumbi Point in the north. The lineage shows strong geographic variation along this range.
Despite common references in the aquarium hobby, the form with two orange blotches is not naturally found at Bulu Point or Karilani Island. The first population resembling the common hobby form occurs approximately 26 km further south, at Nkwazi Point, south of Lubugwe Bay.
Many specimens reported from Karilani Island, Bulu Point and Katumbi Point represent displaced individuals originating from within Mahale Mountains National Park, rather than native populations.

Species usually reaches 12–14 cm total length. Females remain smaller than males. No clear sex-specific differences in coloration are described.

We choose the largest aquarium we can afford. The minimum is a volume of 250 liters and a length of 120 cm. But an aquarium with a minimum volume of 500 liters and a length of at least 150 cm is recommended.
Use fine sand as the substrate. To provide sufficient refuges for persecuted cichlids, place a substantial number of rocks in the tank. It is advisable to use the rocks to create at least one, or several, visual barriers. There are no plants in the natural habitat of Tropheus, so they are not required in the aquarium. If plants are desired for aesthetic reasons or to slightly assist with water quality, choose species with tougher leaves (Vallisneria, Anubias, Ceratophyllum, etc.), which are generally left untouched by Tropheus.
Water chemistry is of critical importance. The pH must be above 7.5 (approximately 7.5 to 9.5). Temperature should be kept consistently between 24 and 27°C and must never exceed 29°C, as this can be fatal. Higher temperatures increase oxygen demand while simultaneously reducing dissolved oxygen levels. In Lake Tanganyika, the upper 40 m of water is very clear and rich in oxygen; therefore, the aquarium should also be well oxygenated using air pumps, filter outlets directed toward the surface, or circulation pumps that enhance surface agitation.
Tropheus are highly sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The filtration system must therefore be powerful and biologically mature. Ammonia and nitrite cause immediate poisoning, while elevated nitrate levels lead to a gradual deterioration of health. Regular weekly water changes of 30–50% are essential, and replacement water should also be well oxygenated.
It is practically impossible to recreate the natural environment of Tropheus in an aquarium, as this would require an extremely large system. In the wild, most adult Tropheus are territorial; similarly, in the aquarium one or a few territorial males occupy defined areas, leaving limited space for other males and females. Because food availability in the aquarium is higher than in nature, non-territorial individuals tend to suppress the need to establish separate feeding territories.
Tropheus are best maintained in relatively large groups of approximately 15 to 25 individuals. In such groups, there may be several males, but there should be at least three to four females per male. Typically, only one male becomes dominant, occupies a territory, and is the only individual that spawns.
In community aquaria, somewhat smaller groups may also be kept. Suitable tank mates include other herbivorous Tanganyikan cichlids, such as smaller Petrochromis species, goby cichlids (Eretmodus, Tanganicodus, and Spathodus)...
Different geographic variants of the same Tropheus species should never be kept together due to the high risk of hybridization. Different Tropheus species may be kept together, preferably those that naturally occur at the same locations. For example, T. duboisi can generally be housed with other Tropheus species, although its lower aggressiveness often makes a species-only aquarium the better choice.
When establishing a group, it is best to introduce a larger number of juveniles so territories develop gradually as the fish grow. Introducing adults often results in extremely violent territorial conflicts. Adding Tropheus to an already established group with defined territories is also very difficult.

In the lake, Tropheus feed primarily on filamentous algae from the aufwuchs. In the aquarium, some of these algae may grow on rocks, but usually not in sufficient quantity to form the main diet. As a .staple, flake food with a high spirulina content is most suitable. Occasionally, foods such as Daphnia, Cyclops, and Mysis can be offered, as some of this prey is also ingested during natural algae grazing.
High-protein foods must be strictly avoided, as they can be lethal. Tropheus have a very long digestive tract adapted to a low-protein diet, and excessive protein intake can quickly lead to the condition known as bloat, to which they are extremely susceptible.
Adult fish should be fed once per day, only as much as they can consume within two minutes. Feeding can also be divided into several smaller meals per day, provided the total daily amount remains the same.

They are typical mouthbreeders. Tropheus usually begin breeding at around 12 months of age, although some individuals may start considerably later. Eggs are relatively large (approximately 5–7 mm), resulting in small broods of about 6–16 eggs. The female carries the developing fry for around 24–26 days, after which she gradually releases them and guards them for several days. The male plays no role in brood care and often drives the female away immediately after spawning.
Unlike many other mouthbrooding cichlids, female Tropheus continue to feed while carrying fry. In some species, females may accept food without swallowing it, with the food consumed only by the fry, whereas in other species females feed normally together with the fry.

Unlike most Haplochromis in Lake Tanganyika, female Tropheus also maintain feeding territories. Male territories are generally one to two times larger than those of females.
In the aquarium, limited space usually allows only a few, or even a single, dominant male to hold a territory, from which all other cichlids are chased away. Aggression is strongest toward conspecifics, while other species are typically tolerated to a greater extent. Due to pronounced intraspecific aggression, Tropheus should be kept in larger groups to distribute aggression among more individuals.